Costa Rica has hundreds of waterfalls. Most travelers see two or three. Here's how to actually experience them and not just photograph them. There's a version of Costa Rica's waterfalls that most people get: a paved path, a viewing platform, a railing, and a hundred other tourists doing the same thing at the same moment. The waterfall is beautiful. The experience is forgettable. Then there's the other version. The one where you wade through a volcanic canyon to reach it. Wher